EPDM or Torch Down??

If you had to make a choice between EPDM and MB torch down.......which would you choose for ease of installation, cost and durability?

I have a small flat roof that ties into a shingled roof. The flat roof is 40 feet long x 25 up to shingles. 1/12.

Insurance paid for torch down but customer dont really want it because that is what failed on this roof before. I suggested Flintlastic but he dont want to pay the extra above what insurance paid. This is a rental/investment property.

Thanks for any advice!>>>

I would have to say EPDM, without a doubt.>>>

Honestly, tho i don't do it, Modified seems like a superior product, generically speaking. Like Mike sez, much thicker and seemingly less likely to be damaged. Any more durable, as in length of service? I don't know For me, I like rubber,'cuase it is an easier install for us, and there fore allows me more flexibility. About all I tell the customers as a negative when comparing the 2 is the 'coons like to chew on the rubber.>>>

Honestly, tho i don't do it, Modified seems like a superior product, generically speaking. Like Mike sez, much thicker and seemingly less likely to be damaged. Any more durable, as in length of service? I don't know For me, I like rubber,'cuase it is an easier install for us, and there fore allows me more flexibility. About all I tell the customers as a negative when comparing the 2 is the 'coons like to chew on the rubber.>>>

AN Epdm roof has significantly less laps, for the size u speak of you can easily have at the most 1 lap, or if u use 30x no laps at all.

The job wd take approx 1/2 with s guys (pending on flashings)

More options for installing underlying insulation.

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adhesive smell? How does that cause a problem? Unless there are air intake rtu's or vents, it doesn't and it is temporary during install anyway.

Vaa, by substrate "fixings" do mean fasteners? If properly screwed down with the correct length and threaded screws that will not be a problem. As alluded to there wd be at the most one seam, and, again, if done right it will last, worse case scenario, for only one lap just over strip it if there is a worry, for redundancy. Field material degredation does not START until approx yr 45 for epdm. The life still continues many yrs post. So, if installed correctly, the systems life can be extended very easily by simply addressing the flashings if needed. This abilitly to extend the sytems life adds for to it's value. Tearing of corners is most likely to happen prematurely if they were installed incorrect.

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also, the ability to increase the buildings insulation value is significantly increases as well, adding the extra value dimension of saving energy and it's associated costs.>>>

The B.a is not as u suggest, and bye degredation, obviously I meant to the degree where it is on the path towards failure is at year 45, I am not sure the type of epdm u utilize, you say carlisle, must be a different form, germaine to NZ, the epdm we utilize does not exhibit the detriments u suggest (i.e- "leaching")>>>

I use the water based adhesive. Much easier and no small at all.>>>

Thanks guys....I appreciate advice!>>>

A couple of factors to consider on a job like that are availability and accessibility. If you had a one-piece epdm 30'x42', could you get it on the roof without requiring paying for a crane or forklift? It would have to weigh over 500 lbs. The supplier that I use most is more residential oriented and only has edpm in 10'x100' rolls. On your particular job, you might end up needing only about 5' of a second roll.>>>

Vaa, The epdm roofs we've installed do not ehibit any of the characteristics you have seen (or at the least not near the depth or extent you claim) we have epdm roofs over 3o y/o.

What wd u use for insulation undr the torch down?

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Vaa, Hot roof and cold roof do not refer to where the insulation lies, btw. Maybe it is just another example of NZ specific terminology.

Buildings here have insulation in the ceilings as well, not just a NZ speciality.

I believe a statement in your first response to this post is still your most pertinent, and your number one reason for favoring Torch down, You are set up for it. I just hope you are doing what is in your clients best interest, not what is in yours.

Mac >>>

let me mitigate that last hot roof, cold roof statement, it partially has to do with the insulation.>>>

Sounds to me ur gettin bad advise from people who havent a clue to install a rubber membrane roof the proper way. The # 1 thing to consider is ur knowledge and the danger of torchdown. #2 Alot less man power installing rubber. #3 The rubber lasts alot longer than torchdown. They both need a layer of atleast half inch substrate-torchdown would require another basesheet on top. The only time screws come through is when not properly tightened or the roof has leaks and thats why ur there.>>>

Vaa The best point you made regards the WIND. I find it very hard to believe you can lay more torchdown in a day than rubber memebrane.>>>