Dead valley question

I've got this fine situation to deal with and normally I'd put mod bit in it and forget about it. Naturally I'd trust a metal solution to last longer, so that's my question. How would one go about putting metal in this valley? The valley is 11' long, so I'd have to use two pieces.

I only know enough about copper to be dangerous, but I'm trying to learn. If you have two pieces of copper overlapping, but not folded together, can you still just solder the joint and expect a long life out of it?

The short answer is yes, but you will probably still want to fold them like a flat seam and flux them so that the solder can flow all around the joint. It is much more than that though as you are going to have to cut and solder the top of the saddle and get beneath the window too. All of the siding is going to have to come off, as well as the shingles and the gutter above etc. Do they really need that window? Just a thought!

I asked them to get rid of the windows but thats a no go. We are roofing the whole house and replacing the siding in this small area.

I'm not sure what you mean about soldering the top of the saddle? On the left, there are two bends just to get out of the valley. Can I make one bend, cut and overlap the other one, and solder it?

I can make a flat seam to connect two valley pieces and then solder it. Or if I'm good enough, I could buy a roll of copper and make one long piece. I have a 12'6" break.

Wow.... nice brain teaser. Any more pics..?

How far is it from the top roof to where it meets the lower roof ?

What are the windows for..? Added light to a room ?

What is the turtle for ?

If I was to do that, I would tear everything apart and build a new saddle that was about 8 inches wide at the bottom and whatever width I could get at the top to clear the window by about 4 inches. If you have a long break, there is no reason you can't bend it in one piece. Like you said, the top has to be bent up to go behind the new siding you are going to install, and the bottom wants to bend down over the step flashings you put up the wall beneath. The whole piece will be about as long as your brake so you will have to have a piece of coil stock. Is it wide enough?

The picture doesn't show the details very well as to the window and the bottom. At the top when you fold up the corner, you can solder that if you want to, but since it is at the top and shed point, I would not be afraid to caulk it and nail it with a copper nail. I have seen some of the guys just fold it over like you could with rubber, but that is a lot harder. Not necessary in my opinion, but then again, everyone has an opinion. Make sure it doesn't leak and don't be afraid to charge them for it.

If it's in snow country; Get rid of the window, install a proper cricket and add a skylight....Stick a window around the corner if the existing window is meeting minimum code requirements.

If it's in SoCal or the like; You can most-likely leave to window - Just install a proper cricket w/appropriate roofing/sheet metal. Don't forget to pull the winodw out and flash properly!

Thinking out of the box, a rain diverter above the cricket would help slow and reduce the amount of rain to the cricket. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

CIAK: I might just put in a diverter. I hate to, and only did one other time in a nasty repair situation, but I just might.

TomB: not really snow country, but we do get the occasional snow/ice load.

RoofDude: The windows are adding light to their kitchen, they don't want to lose them. I'm not sure what the vent is for, maybe an intake. I told them that I might take it out of I see no reason for it. I don't have the dimensions handy. The upper roof isn't a long slope, but the roof I'm standing on taking a picture is about 20'.

clvr...

Was trying to come up with a solution. Thought maybe continue the upper roof into the lower, & put a skylight in. A lot of effort but, solves the roof problem, & keeps light coming into the windows.

That's not a terrible idea, it made me think about it. I might pitch that by the homeowner, but he is on a tight budget. He picked me and I had to be far from the lowest bid, so he is already stretching it.

A couple of things. Only one or two nails close together at the upper end only. Cleatt he rest of it. You don't want the metal pinched anywhere.

I would most likely use two diverters. One just above the cleat line of the copper pan, the other higher than than vent.

Don't forget to run it well past the outer corner and fold it back in a tinner's wing with it throwing any water at least 4-6" past the corner board and down spout.

clvr83 Said: Thats not a terrible idea, it made me think about it. I might pitch that by the homeowner, but he is on a tight budget. He picked me and I had to be far from the lowest bid, so he is already stretching it.

I hear ya..... even when it ain't about the money.... it's about the money..lol.

However, I don't think it would be terribly expensive to do that. Especially when you take into account the reduced expense from siding, gutter, copper, etc.

In this scenario where price really mattered, I would buy the skylight top from lowes, usually pretty reasonable, frame it, & flash it myself. Much more affordable than buying one of the high end kits. I've installed several that way, on 2 x 6 framing. Done em on both pitched, & low slope apps. Never had a problem with any of em.

I bet the time & labor would be the same or less, than dealing with it as is.

If you wanted to really brighten it up..... lay out some galv tin on the existing surface, just under the windows, before you cover it up. The light coming from your skylights, will be amplified into their windows. Kind of like how those tubular skylights work..... just thinking out loud.....

What I would sell them on would be extending the roof line where the gutter is down to meet the other roof slope.

Remove the existing window and use that hole to bring in light from a new 2' x 4' skylight on the new roof slope. It's not like they have a view now from the window.

This would enable you to use a membrane valley with no siding or wall issues to worry about.

When you frame in for the light tunnel to the existing window opening, finish the interior and insulate around it before you sheet in the roof in this area. You can stand between the roof framing and reach everything to finish and trim out.

You might also be able to re-route that vent to get it out of the new valley area.

You are left with just one wall above the patio door?? to step flash and install siding.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Yup! Agreed seen-it-all.

End result: Great solution to a nasty problem.

Roofdude: I like the idea about the galvanized reflecting light.

Seenitall: I like it except for the fact that I have to do finish work. We are roofers, not finishers. I try very hard to stay away from stuff that isn't our specialty, but this instance wouldn't be too dificult. I'm going to run some options by the homeowner and see what he thinks.

Also: There is another low pitch valley on this house, but it's not quite "dead" like this one. This is a super nice house on the inside, homeowner designed and built. About 140' flashing total.

Tinner thanks for the photo. I've been wanting some photos to show my guys how I would like flashing(when I'm not around) and this is a great example.