please give me your input

If the roof is no longer considered a viable thing, that is if it's just a stop-gap repair on a lame-duck membrane, patch it any way you like. No matter what you do, it has to be clean or else dirt, rock, and carbon will just corrupt the repair. Getting it back to clean hot membrane with a torch, a mop, primer, light solvent and a rag, soap and water, or telekinesis, is absolutely a must although many people since time out of mind have had mixed results just blasting something on. It quite often works. But a righteous repair has to laminate. One nice thing about a dissimilar patch material is that there will be no argument...everyone will always be able to see exactly what was worked on, even from a great distance. Another good thing about a dissimilar patch is that if you have to widen it later, you know exactly where to start. Spudding an old rock job is pretty easy. Relocating a recent graveled in patch? Oh, yeah; you won't lose track of that. If you have a small kettle and you have a torch, I believe the kettle goes with the BUR and the modified goes with the modified. If you don't have both, you make do the best you can. If it is within the acceptable range for the customer, it's all good.

Make sure you are where the leak BEGINS, and not where it ENDS,(ENTRY POINT COULD BE FARTHER AWAY).