lead paint

Well what about dormers and walls were you have to re-flash. You will be disturbing the paint. Removing old gutter and paint is peeling off behind it. I see all kinds of areas where roofers will be impacted

Many of us have to remove and replace siding on shed roofs we're doing. Dormer sides. Dormer windows and sills, fascias, not to even mention long walls where we remove and replace old counterflashing. Me? I might be pulling 20 square of tin roof off with 30 coats of lead based paint on them. I gquess wrapping each section in plastic before tossing will suffice with that.

I do not see that this new sack of shi-rules has any affect on most roofers. I do not intend to worry about it.

---I used to do county work where these rules applied. I could replace facia, siding or other lead based paint as long as I didn't cut into it and create dust. Just removing a board with lead paint was no problem at all. Nor was there any problem dumping it in the regular trash. Maybe the rules have changed??? Lanny

:laugh: I forgot to mention valleys. Seldom see a roof with valleys have less than 30'.

You're right though. It's nothing to get into a bother about. I mean, who cares? What it will boil down to is the interpretation of the lead inspector and how much lead/paint he decides you got involved with. He'll be a bureaucrat. It'll be easy to prove him/her wrong, and just continue doing what we always did. It shouldn't be any harder than proving OSHA wrong. And that's easy enough to do. ;)

---You can melt it right on the kitchen stove...but I would never do it indoors... ---I use a cast iron skillet that is about 3 inches deep. I set it on an old BBQ grate between to cinderblock bricks. I then use my propane torchdown torch laying on the ground pointing at the skillet. I can adjust the heat with the torch control. ---I try to remain upwind so as not to breath the fumes...you could wear a mask... ---I have about a dozen professional molds from "Lil Mac." Check them online. You could use almost anything, however. I have about 4 weight belt molds and some sinker molds (aluminum) and some generic cast iron misc. You need several as you have to wait for the lead to cool before it will come out of the mold. I suppose you could dunk them in water. ---I am continually feeding lead into the melt pot while I release the lead from the molds. Oh, I also have a cast iron ladle for pouring. You will need a ladle because you will not be able to lift the skillet with molten lead in it. I also have a section of "rabbit hutch" screen for skimming slag floating in the pot. ---Lead melts at around 600 degrees which is a fairly low temp. ---Kind of a fun hobby. Try pouring molten lead into a 5 gallon bucket full of water. There are all kinds of things you can do. ---By the way there will be some drips and misc waste around the work area. You will want to do this on a piece of plywood or other barrier so as to be able to clean everything up when done. You don't want to do this in the kids play area. I throw the plywood away when I am done. Lanny

Thanks Lanny, that sounds like what I had in mind for a setup. I've ordered the ladle online and will be casting my first plaster mold today. So I'll be set to go when the ladle gets here.

One thing about the lead hazard I learned while researching this. Pewter was used for cooking vessels and toys for centuries. It's currently in vogue for door handles. You never hear a thing about it being hazardous. But as I learned, pewter is the lowest temp alloy you can make. All you have to do is melt a mixture of 75% tin, 25% lead.

---I am guessing that today's pewter is lead-free. It is just a base metal with a dull finish that resembles the pewter look. That is so it will not be dangerous. Lanny