extream frost in the attic with new roof

Hello all, I'm new to this site and posting I hope I do it correct. 4 years ago had a neighbor contact me and they needed a new roof. We installed a 3D roof shingle from Tamco and changed the box vents to a OC ridge vent.the home is a two story approximately 1700 Square Feet 2 years in the call came that the roof was leaking, went to investigate and found frost in the attic. noticed that the soffit vents were all closed with insulation. The bath vents were in the attic. Insulation is rolled bats 10 in thick. This home has two gable end vents on the ends and a 4/12 pitch on the back and 6 /12 on the front with 1/2 the front is covered in vaulted ceilings that do not have vent chutes. We went into the attic the 2nd year and installed the stryo chutes in the openings that were open over 3/4 of the back and 1/2 the front. Installed the bath vent out the gable ends. The home does not have heat in the attic, it has a vent pipe for the furnace and plumbing in the attic space. This year cold and snow came and frost again. Here in central Indiana, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Typically the problems you found in the attic should have been discovered before the roof was replaced.

This is why some estimators can do 6 estimates per day

It is short circuiting! Proper-Vent the rest of the soffit openings. Make sure that the soffit is completely vented; take out the aluminum solid soffit panels and install ALL vented panels, ALL of them! Get inside the attic and close off the gable end vents; both of them. Install an AirVent II ridge vent on the peak, and make sure that the opening on the peak is at least 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole length. When you are done, you should be able to stand in the attic at the peak and see light coming from the soffits all the way along, and the vent should be drawing air out the ridge. When the wind blows, it will draw even more. Your frost problems will go away! Oh, cut out and install the bathroom vents to attach the bathroom vent hoses to and vent them outside, not "against the gable vents" DON'T try and gang them together. Three bathrooms, three vents and separate hoses.

Wash, rise, repeat if you have other similar problems.

Builders/ framers/ siders in Indiana have some weird, incoherent uneducated system of soffit venting: install a vented panel every once in awhile. Sometimes use Center Vent....even if the soffit is like 10" wide...

Like the Funny Uncle, ventilation is something Indiana Roofers don't talk about. I think because it has nothing to do with being faaaaaaast and cheeeeeep.

Just did a big wide church addition 2 years ago. LOTS of Cubic feet up there. 12" soffits and..........Center Vent!

He has a problem and I told him how to fix it!! As long as he does everyone of those steps and does them all, he will eliminate the frost. He will also eliminate a lot of other problems INSIDE the building that he doesn't even realize are problems...yet! The shingles will last longer, and the AC costs will go down. Talk about being "fast and cheap" It is also efficient and better for the whole building.

Old School Said: Install an AirVent II ridge vent on the peak, and make sure that the opening on the peak is at least 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole length.

He said he used OC vent ridge. Why is anyone buying that junk? It is less than 1/2" thick, so I suppose it is barely noticeable, but there is virtually no air flow.

And it can't be stressed enough. The opening must be cut and trimmed properly. I can't believe how many times I have seen ridge vents with little or no openings.

O/C has a Cor-a-vent type product and then there is a baffled product they promote as having 20 nfa natty.

He did not specify.

Just looked at one last week. Crap ridge vent No problem before they replaced the roof. I can't remember if I told her over the phone or if I told when there was 4" of snow on the roof.....bad product.

Of course the "Perfessionel Replace Yer Roof For Free Because of Hail Damage Roofing Estimate" mentioned nothing about product....just a ridge vent :ohmy:

Here is just a little more information VentSure Rigid Roll 20' is the ridge vent. The top is open about 2 inches on each side. Each bath vent is vented out the gable end to the outside not inside at all. The soffit vents are in all of the openings that will accept a stryo chute in them. getting some great information that you so much for taking the time to help.

Chris

Homebuilders Said: VentSure Rigid Roll 20 is the ridge vent.

And do what old school says.

twill59 Said:

Just did a big wide church addition 2 years ago. LOTS of Cubic feet up there. 12 soffits and..........Center Vent!

It looks like solid vent, but the vent is in the center rib, kind of hidden by the way they bend it. Much better to just use vented aluminum. The perforated aluminum gives you about 9.9 % net free area; thus a 10 foot piece will give you about 1 square foot of open area equivalent.

Chris, if you have 2 inches on each side of the ridge open, that will do; it is almost too much in fact. Make SURE that you can see light in the soffit all the way you have the proper vents. Also, change the ridge vent to the AirVent II. It works better! If you will use it all the time, you will look like a true professional.

natty a 12" wide soffit panel w/ perforations in the middle "rib" (?) and solid on each side "rib" (?).

Is that the correct term OS, rib?

Yes, that is about it, the center rib is bent kind of deep and they have the vertical portions perforated, so it does vent, but you can hardly see them.

I think we're talking about 2 different things OS. I think you are referring to the hidden type of vented soffit

http://www.quality-edge.com/truline-ts-soffit

you'll see what we call center vent in that link

In this link: http://www.quality-edge.com/hidden-vent-soffit

Is what I think you're referring to?

I know what you are talking about now. It is the triple 4" vent with the center panel perforated. If you have ever seen it made, they have a roller that can be taken on or off that will perforate the panels as they come off the machine. It is exactly the same machine with only one of the rollers working and the other two are taken out of production. It costs exactly the same to make perforated panels as it does to make the solid ones. why not all perforated?

Beats me OS