Deck Fill Material 4 Ponding Area?

Area is too small for ponding pump or JoSam. Looking for that fill material that is dry, not the cementicious stuff that requires water. Anyone know the product I'm referring to?

Sand?

Contact your Siplast rep for the Paraslope material. Derbigum has something similar. Both are asphaltic based and they are applied in multiple lifts with their respective cold adhesive (Siplast's PA311 or Debigum's Permastic). I have used both and prefer the Paraslope if I had the choice.

Bob P.

OS....I remember tearing off roofs that the crickets were made of sand.....Funny, I'd forgoten all about that, until your mentioned sand.

Me too, I wasn't kidding! It works

During WW2, materials were in short supply. Sand was often added to roof coating, to extend the roof life. If you think about it, it is a mineral.

Living in flat roof swamp country I come across many situations with ponding water. Can you give an example how sand is used. I find it interesting. The flat roof on my main residence has a low spot. I might try this for an experiment on my own home.

B) :) :) B)

Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

I tore off a couple of roofs years back that had used sand as a cricket to slope the roof to the drains. Just lay it on the roof, compact it and install the membrane over it. It is just a filler and is infinetly shapable.

Paraslope is fantastic. Once it's in place it's not moving. No foot tracks. No displacement. No area of loose material over it like you would have with sand. Sand may have been good, or at least OK, with a BUR, but I'd go Paraslope. Bob put us onto that stuff maybe 6-8 years ago. Good stuff.

I got 15 bags of Paraslope. I got their instructions but often there are some more practical hints. Anyone have any hints top offer on application?

Don't have a bag to read, so I'm not sure...

Run some strings to set your slope lines, pour, pack, & roof.

The first mistake guys tend to make is over-estimating quantities.....estimating x depth vs. X to Zero depth. But heck...you can always take whatever is left over, back to the supplier for restocking.

Don't forget to clean the area and make sure it is thoroughly dry. Prime the area where the paraslope will be applied as well as where the new roof material will extend or tie-in to the existing roof surface.Follow the directions for adhesive and fill material application. Screed and level the material with a board the same as you would do with concrete. Layout Visqueen poly sheet over the material and lay some thin plywood, OSB or even densdeck as a walking surface to allow a thorough compaction with a lawn roller and a hand tamper, diasassemble the poly and walking surface as you install the roof material.

The fill material itself is a bit "bouncy" and will recover a bit when it is compressed....it really never fully hardens or cures out so it can easily be added to or removed to achieve desired results. Assuming you are working with a mod bit membrane, the first ply of membrane needs to be adhered in cold adhesive...i don't think I would consider trying to adhere by torching or hot asphalt. the second ply if required, can be torched but adhesive can also be used.

I hope this helps.

So how did it work?

Mike H Said: So how did it work?

A strange set of circumstances went into getting this job. I left the door open to inspect the deck before being committed. Upon close inspection the deck was weak in several areas so I declined the job.

When we're training Kold Kingers one of the lessons my dad teaches is: Don't buy someone else's headache. This job would have been buying someone else's headache.

So now we have 15 bags of Paraslope setting in the shop.

Found this while searching Google, thought I'd ressurect it...

I've got a 20x24 w/ about a 2" pond in the middle. -Almost dead level, but needs to go one way. -Tearoff tar & gravel. Should I sand, or paraslope? Then throw tapered insulation over it. -Also thought about re-pitching w/ sister rafters, but that seems excessive. What do you think? Could I just put sand down and insulate over it for the easiest solution??

Clover, the "problem" with the sand is that you are going to put the weight of the sand on the very spot that is weak. It will probably make is sink even more and you will be compounding the problem. Is there any way to just use Styrofoam and cut it to fill the middle and then just bridge over it with a tapered system? Maybe go tapered from 0 to 3 inches at the middle and then go the 3 inches the rest of the way, following the slope of the hole? Just a thought.