cricket tamko valley install with questions for the pros

If you aren't going to remove the stucco and rework the flashings there, then just finish it up and hope for the best. My instinct still tells me the problems will occur in the portion already worked, but if all the parts are sealed together you may get lucky. Can't tell from here.

From what I am getting, your plan going forward sounds right; level the courses and finish it up. Like Lefty and Tinner say, it's too hard to describe exactly what the process is...which parts go where and in exactly which sequence. You can cut the tips of step shingles where they peek out from under a course because of the angle they are on.

The step shingles should come down far enough to cover the laminated back piece on each shingles or water will track sideways on it. You can extend the existing with shims if you have to, but working them up under the stucco is going to be nearly impossible. They don't have to be full height at the wall to give you protection at the laminate edge in the field.

If you snap that line Tamko is telling you to snap two inches above the true valley, which is fine, it's going to be interesting trying to decide where you're going to stop at the bottom where the turret pulls away. If you draw a plumb line from the valley straight up to where your first fully-exposed step shingle is now, you can't be jamming a new layer of anything up against that stucco anywhere to the left of that without entirely relying on a mass of sealant.

Sealing the vertical legs of step shingles together should really only be done in a hidden manner, as you lay them up, not top-sealed. Top-sealing is a dangerous practice. If you're not careful, top-sealing will trap water in the joint. If you topseal, you have to monitor the seals regularly.

Good luck with it.

Seeing as how this thing is round, is a cricket even necessary?